第五话｜28 Crazy Days in Amazon/亚马逊雨林，人类最荒诞的狂欢
Heading to Amazon,
which the destination can only be reached by 4 days cargo boat or plane.
I was staying this little hotel near the port waiting for the boat.
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拖着行李前往亚马逊。
要去的地方只有两条路，
要么跟着货船挂个吊床漂4天4夜，
要么飞机直达。
我在一个小港口的旅店漫无目的的等船开。
All the trip started from killing.People dragging those panic stricken cows onto the boat,
it’s actually terrifying to see the animal side of human beings.
The blood-cursing scream from the cow and the laugh from the human beings.
The law of the jungle. We just pretend to be better,
all the war, bullying is just part of human nature.
Most of our pain comes from we thought we could conquer our nature.
like the marriage, like the PTSD.
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在热带雨林的漂流是从杀戮开始的，
人们欢笑的拽着一头头惊恐的牛往货船上赶。
可是亲眼目睹人类的兽性还是让人发寒。
撕裂的牛的惨叫和人们儿戏似讥笑。
弱肉强食向来就是动物的本性，
我们又何必高高在上的吹捧自己。
战争，凌辱其实都是天性使然，
我们的痛苦往往都是
自以为能征服我们动物的本能。
婚姻如此，PTSD亦是如此。
Lying on the deck watching the Amazon river passing by,
there’s one tiny light up there,
like the silent scream that couldn't reach anywhere.
This is the second night floating on Amazon,
I seem already got used to this silent life without signal, without bed.
wake up when the sun is up, go to bed when the sun is down.
Learning how to doing nothing and not feeling anxious.
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Watching the star in my hammock, the wind pass by my ear,
sometimes a firefly flies over.
I felt like i was in the middle of sky and the earth.
When I sit up, the river is lighten up by our patrol light ,
it’s full of white plastic trash floating on the river.
The trace of us, like the most abominate child and a selfless mother ,
keep demanding and destroying whatever we can grab.
I expected the beauties of Amazon,
I didn’t expected it can be this dilapidated.
躺在甲板上看着亚马逊的河流离我远去，
远处有一户人家闪着灯光，
像是宇宙里那得不到回应的呼喊，
这是在亚马逊漂流的第二夜，
似乎已经开始习惯了这没有通讯没有床，
日出而作日落而息的日子，
连一本书都没有的我渐渐学会了
热带人什么都不干看着河流发呆的日子。
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睡在吊床里看着繁星满天，
耳边吹过亚马逊的风，不时有萤火虫飞过，
我觉得我矗立在天地之间。
坐起来的时候，
河面不时被巡逻的白色灯光照亮，
河面漂满了各种无法融化的白色垃圾，
这就是我们在地球上留下的痕迹，
像是一个恶劣的小孩和无私的母亲，
无情的索取践踏强奸
每一寸他能够剥夺的东西。
我料到了亚马逊的美丽，
却没料到美的这般残破。
在最美的地方看着一堆垃圾是触目惊心的，
我不知不觉的流泪了。
像是看着一个最美的女人的脸
被一刀刀的撕破。
Keep moving in the Amazon,
Sometimes it’s pouring, sometimes its sunny.
We deliver everything to different village along the river.
a cow,
a chicken,
a pack of orange ,
a generator.
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船就这样在亚马逊里缓缓前行，
时而狂风骤雨，时而烈日炎炎。
我们向每一个沿岸的村落运送生活所需，
一头牛，一只鸡，一箱橘子，一个发电机。
Everything in the tropical has this sense of nothingness.
It reminds me of a movie of how a South-African woman
and her robots dying slowly after the radiation of Nuclear station.
Japan has this nothingness,
I learned that when I was 14 from a Japanese novel <Snow Country>
But the nothingness from tropical is even more primitive and rampant.
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热带的一切都蔓延着一股虚无，
它让我想起前不久看的一部南非女人
和她的机器人
在日本核电泄露后渐渐死去的电影。
日本本是虚无，
从14岁起就从川端康成的雪国里得知
人生不过是一场徒劳。
而热带的虚无来得更加原始和泛滥。
Without the drive of material and money,
how should we kill our time?
So they spend a lot of time sit in front of their house and watching the river pass.
get a fish in the river when they’re hungry,
take a bath in the river when they feel hot.
then what happen?
then we’re all the same, taking away by the time.
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没有了物质，金钱的驱使，
人生到底需要如何消磨？
所以他们花很多的时间
坐在家门口看着河流发呆，
就这样从少年看成了老年，
饿了就去河里捕条鱼，
热了就去河里洗个澡，
然后呢？
然后你我都一样，被时间带走。
After 4 days of floating,I even felt sad to get off.
Iquitos is one of the largest city in the Amazon.
Getting away from the poetic nothingness villages,
this is a flood of dissipation in the Amazon,
24 hours air conditioned casino,
street vender with cheap cigarette,
mystery woman with her cigarette in the cafe.
All the people trying to get you into their cheap tour,
like a alligator, waiting to bite you hardly.
-
Down to the shanty town there’s the biggest local market.
All lives and death from the Amazon can be sell here,
bloody alligator, turtle and snakes.
shamanic drinks made by all kinds of plants
or animal can drive you to the border of life and death.
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漂了四天四夜，
下船的时候竟是念念不舍。
来到了热带雨林最大的一座城市Iquitos.
从原始村落的诗意虚无抽离出来，
这是藏在丛林里的一个纸醉金迷，
24小时中央空调偷着寒气的赌场，
托着夹板卖着廉价香烟的小贩，
在马路上卖艺的脏辫嬉皮，
河岸咖啡馆吐着烟泡泡的神秘女人。
街边不停有人拉着你去参加各种旅行团，
像是一个个的鳄鱼嘴巴，等着一口把你咬定。
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河边的贫民窟边有丛林里最大的菜市场，
一切热带雨林的活的死的都在这里买与卖着。
血淋淋的鳄鱼乌龟和蟒蛇零散在各个角落，
不明动物植物酿制的各种草药
也能让你在生与死之间徘徊。
-When you’re living in a small structure,
your imagination is always expanding unlimitedly.
like Japan.
The desire of the craziness is your natural resist to your limited environment.
But when you step into the real world,
there’s no space for you to imagine anymore,
because now you’re living the craziness itself.
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当你活在小格局的世界里的时候，
想象力是被无限放大的，像是日本。
你对荒诞世界的渴望
是你对狭窄现境最本能地反抗，
当你走进大千世界里的时候，
你早已无暇去想象，
因为你早已活在荒诞本身。
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.
.
.
有一天我和Benjiming划着小船赶着回家，
突然倾盆大雨，打得几乎睁不开眼睛。
我拿出塑料袋包住相机，
一艘小船在偌大的亚马逊河的风浪
面前显得多么渺小。
那一刻我突然哭了，
一种奇妙的洒脱涌上心头，
把全身湿透的自己融在这亚马逊的空气里。
多美好的一刻啊。
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That day I was rowing with Benjamin
to go home.
All the sudden the pouring,
bitting me I could barely open my eye.
I grab a plastic bag to protect my camera.
A tiny boat in front of the giant Amazon river.
I cried.
A magical feeling of free spirit came to me,
I freed myself into the air of Amazon.
What a wonderful moment of life.
終わり
MUMUKO PHOTOGRAPHY
a Nomadic VISURA photojournalist/documentary photographer
based in Latin America, and Tokyo.
for more work
www.mumuko.com
#Peru #Amazon #tribe #documentaryphotography #travel #worldtravel #southamerica #南米 #旅行摄影师 #カメラマン
